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The Perfect Spring Day: Naples Featured Image

Spring in Naples is the sweetest season. As in many Italian and Mediterranean cities, the sunlight is gentle and temperatures are mild, which makes walking the ups and downs of the hilly city more enjoyable. And, should the blue of the sky be shaded by the clouds, the white-and-blue celebratory flags which anticipate the long-awaited local soccer team’s victory at the national soccer championship – defeating the Neapolitans’ famous superstition – restore the appropriate shade at every corner of the city. If it’s still too early – for most of people, at least – to take a swim in the gulf or cruise it on a kayak, this is the perfect time to explore Naples on foot, discovering its unexpected green soul.

On a Roll: One Chef’s Search for Lisbon’s Best Sandwiches Featured Image

A chef’s guide to Lisbon’s best sandwiches, from classic bifanas and pregos to hidden tasca specialties served in neighborhood bars and cafés across the city.

Bustling Kemeraltı bazaar, Turkey’s largest open-air market, photo by Paul Benjamin Osterlund 

A walk through Izmir’s Kemeraltı Bazaar, where synagogues, tea houses, market stalls, and longtime local food vendors reveal the daily life of Turkey’s largest open-air market.

Hands of Osaka: A Food Tour Through Craft, Tradition, and Everyday Mastery Featured Image

Explore Osaka’s food culture through a photo essay of our Tenmabashi tour, from hand-cut soba and sushi to street food and traditional crafts.

State of the Stomach: Thessaloniki Featured Image

In Thessaloniki, food is the city’s most vivid expression of history. Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, Sephardic Jewish and refugee influences all remain on the table, shaping a dining culture built on long meals, strong local loyalties and a deep sense of continuity.

CB on the Road

Like so many other Greek specialties, bougatsa has a long history, in this case one that stretches all the way back to Byzantine times. Bougatsa is mainly a breakfast pie with a phyllo pastry made of flour, softened butter and oil that requires a great deal of skill to prepare. This pie is made and enjoyed all around Greece, but particularly famous are those made in northern Greece, especially in Thessaloniki and Serres. Turkish börek is a close relation, and similar pies are traditional to many eastern Balkan countries that were formally part of the Ottoman Empire. The tradition of bougatsa making really took off around Greece in the early 1920s with the arrival of the Greek refugees from Asia Minor and Cappadocia.

Bouyiourdi Recipe: Baked Feta with Tomatoes and Peppers Featured Image

A staple of Thessaloniki meze culture, bouyiourdi is a quick baked dish of feta, tomatoes and peppers, served hot and shared with bread at tavernas and home tables alike.

Market Watch: Shopping Through Thessaloniki’s Past and Present Featured Image

From the Bezesteni and Bit Bazaar to Kapani Market and Athonos Square, Carolina Doriti traces the commercial life of Thessaloniki through the markets, delis and specialty shops that connect the city’s past to its everyday food culture.

Morning, Noon, Night: Carolina Doriti’s Thessaloniki Featured Image

Chef, cookbook author and longtime Culinary Backstreets guide Carolina Doriti shares her ideal day of eating in Thessaloniki, from koulouri and Greek coffee to soutzoukakia, seafood meze and dessert stops that show off the city’s sweet tooth.

Diagonios is a classic spot for soutzoukakia, Thessaloniki, photo by Katherine Whittaker

In Thessaloniki, food is the clearest expression of the city’s history. From refugee-rooted soutzoukakia and late-night patsas to bougatsa, trigona and old-school seafood, these are the essentials that define how the city eats.

Where to Eat Meze in Thessaloniki: 7 Mezedopoleia to Know Featured Image

One of the most popular kinds of restaurants in Greece is the mezedopoleio, which, as the name indicates, specializes in traditional local meze dishes (washed down with generous amounts of ouzo or other alcoholic drinks). Back in the day, mezedopoleia were the neighborhood’s meeting points. Men gathered there most of the day to drink, have a bite, talk politics and play backgammon, chess or cards. Today, the mezedopoleio remains a simple and very affordable place to eat, sometimes operating as a kafenio (cafeteria), and often offering traditional live music to add to the experience. Among Greek cities Thessaloniki is particularly famous for its numerous and excellent mezedopoleia, which makes it very difficult to choose just a few.

Manchu: More Than Convenient Featured Image

A purple corner store beneath the Claiborne overpass, Manchu feeds New Orleans far beyond convenience. Famous for its crackly fried chicken, shrimp fried rice, and yaka mein, the Vietnamese-owned staple sits at the crossroads of Tremé and the Seventh Ward, where Asian-Creole cooking, neighborhood ritual, and community care come together, day after day.

Círculo del Sureste: From Street Stand to Neighborhood Fixture Featured Image

A long-running Yucatecan cantina in Colonia Járez, Circulo del Sureste, has built its reputation on cochinita pibil, sopa de lima, and a menu that has barely changed in decades.

Quick Hits: Where to Eat, Drink, and Explore in Paris Featured Image

A quick guide to eating and drinking across Paris, from old-school bistros and neighborhood markets to cocktail bars, standout dishes and emerging dining neighborhoods.

Cork: A Bilbao Bar for Wine and Basque Cooking Featured Image

Near San Mamés, Cork has become one of Bilbao’s most compelling addresses for wine by the glass, thoughtful pintxos and classic Basque dishes served in a bar that still feels personal.

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