Though it has always taken a backseat to Barcelona in foodie terms, Madrid, the sprawling Spanish capital, has upped the ante with its increasingly varied gastronomy and adaptation of new food concepts. As a centralized city, the cultures of separate Spanish regions – still a political talking point – is reflected here in a gastronomical microcosm: Galician eateries, Basque pintxos, Asturian snacks, etc. This, together with the ir de tapas in different neighborhoods, new avant-garde chefs, traditional taverns and a few imported hipster inventions, creates an interesting mosaic among the city’s already high density of restaurants and bars. Lavapiés is Madrid’s best-known neighborhood for cultural plurality, and that includes its food offerings.

Inside Mercado de la Paz, Casa Dani serves one of Madrid’s most celebrated tortillas de patata, with a browned exterior and a soft, creamy center. The tortilla draws the crowds, but regulars also come for callos a la madrileña, gambas al ajillo and the changing menú del día.

A mapped guide to 10 of our favorite markets in Madrid, from traditional grocery halls and seafood counters to tortilla, natural wine, tacos, Peruvian pastries, and Chifa lunch.