In San Sebastian, talking about food, but above all, about cooking, is the norm. Here, something as small as a gilda is of the utmost importance. To stick anchovies, olives and guindilla peppers on a stick is not enough; together these ingredients must contrast and balance, living up to the gilda’s reputation as one of the city’s most celebrated pintxos. A good gilda comes with a punch of flavor and freshness; an ideal combination of textures and acidity that is eaten in a single bite.

It's a Sunday and, in the blink of an eye, Manojo is full. People move between tables with familiarity; customers greet one another, say hello with a kiss on the cheek or give a wave – it feels as if everyone is a regular in this small establishment on José Arana Street in San Sebastian’s beachside Gros neighborhood. Manojo was created for just such a purpose, helmed by a couple of young chefs obsessed not so much with fine dining but with assuring a fine evening for all guests, by way of creative and honest food; for wines that are ready to start a good conversation and, mostly, for an ambience that feels as warm as a friend's hug.

In the 13th century, San Sebastian was a walled fishing village. While it may no longer look like one, Kofradia – a restaurant and maritime education center that opened in 2020 – is working to preserve fragments of that history. Located near La Kontxa beach, between where San Sebastian’s fishing port and a seaside entrance to the old walled town used to be, the project got its start as an initiative of several local guilds and organizations that work with small fishing boats in the Bay of Biscay. This is where the fish on Kofradia’s menu comes from, reflecting the quality of the catch, the commitment to responsible fishing, and the maintenance of the balance of local biodiversity.