At Borda Berri in San Sebastián’s old town, Lucía Huezo runs a famously crowded counter while the kitchen serves meticulous Basque dishes made from scratch.

This past year has been an exciting one in San Sebastián. The emergence of new projects, driven by young talented people – some bringing ideas and flavours from abroad – makes even more thrilling the adventure of dining out in a city celebrated for its deep-rooted traditions and extraordinary gastronomy. While enjoying some of the iconic local dishes remains a must, it’s also a nice time to delve into what it's being offered by this new wave of talent, whether you’re up for some pintxo hopping or are looking to enjoy a nice time with friends or family at some of the city’s finest tables.

The streets are nearly empty. As light cascades down cobbled thoroughfares, dog walkers shield their eyes and market-goers tow their rickety carts toward Mercado de la Bretxa. The market of San Sebastián sits underneath a square just a pebble’s skip from crashing waves surging up the mouth of the Urumea Itsasadarra River. Lamps glowing red illuminate butchers navigating dangling strings of txistorra, Basque chorizo, while across the aisle, an bright white storefront advertises every imaginable form of bacalao, or salt cod. Tucked in a rear corner, Bar Azkena has been crafting delicate fluffy breakfasts for nearly 20 years. Tortillas, or omelets, stuffed with surprises like squid ink and blood sausage fill the bar counter, necessitating foldout tabletops and overflow seating across the aisle.