Though it has always taken a backseat to Barcelona in foodie terms, Madrid, the sprawling Spanish capital, has upped the ante with its increasingly varied gastronomy and adaptation of new food concepts. As a centralized city, the cultures of separate Spanish regions – still a political talking point – is reflected here in a gastronomical microcosm: Galician eateries, Basque pintxos, Asturian snacks, etc. This, together with the ir de tapas in different neighborhoods, new avant-garde chefs, traditional taverns and a few imported hipster inventions, creates an interesting mosaic among the city’s already high density of restaurants and bars. Lavapiés is Madrid’s best-known neighborhood for cultural plurality, and that includes its food offerings.

A mapped guide to 10 of our favorite markets in Madrid, from traditional grocery halls and seafood counters to tortilla, natural wine, tacos, Peruvian pastries, and Chifa lunch.

Near Plaza Mayor, Nilah brings South Indian cooking into one of Madrid’s busiest dining corridors. The menu centers on metre-long dosas, vegetarian thalis, coconut chutneys and tamarind-laced stews.