A short ride from central Izmir, Çamdibi offers a look at the city's everyday food culture, from early-morning Bosnian börek and hearty soups to kokoreç and kebabs accompanied by unexpected seasonal salads.

Fresh cowpeas simmered gently with olive oil, onion, garlic, and tomato are a late-summer staple of the Aegean table. This version, inspired by Kısmet Lokantası in Izmir, is served cool with lemon and yogurt.

From a tiny shop in Kemeraltı, Elgani Ezmecizade sends its almond, walnut, and pistachio pastes around the world. Behind them lies generations of confectionery knowledge, carefully sourced ingredients, and a family determined to keep the craft in its own hands.