Fresh cowpeas simmered gently with olive oil, onion, garlic, and tomato are a late-summer staple of the Aegean table. This version, inspired by Kısmet Lokantası in Izmir, is served cool with lemon and yogurt.

After 22 years away from the grill, Selim Ceylan returned to his family’s trade in Kemeraltı, serving charcoal-grilled köfte and a seven-piece offal platter inspired by the craft he grew up around.

Izmir eats with one foot in the bazaar and the other by the sea. This quick primer covers the old-school meyhanes, neighborhood markets, bars, restaurants, and essential dishes that help define the city’s food culture.