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From Snout to Tail

Important holidays have long been associated with large feasts and for centuries have functioned as an excuse to treat family and guests to something special. Christmas in Greece is no exception: there are many culinary traditions associated with the Christmas season, known as Dodekaimero (twelve days), which officially begins on December 24 and ends on January 6. Nowadays many Greeks associate the Christmas table with a roast stuffed turkey, a tradition that arrived in Europe from North America, particularly Mexico, around the 1820s. It gradually became fashionable in Greek cities and over time turned into a Christmas staple, with a traditional stuffing prepared mainly with chestnuts, chopped turkey liver, minced meat, pine nuts and raisins.

For Devotion

There’s a famous Italian saying that goes, “Christmas with yours, Easter with whomever you want.” In Naples, this piece of advice has practically become law, meaning that the Christmas holidays are spent with family – no ifs, ands or buts about it. So on December 25, Neapolitans can be found at home, surrounded by relatives (which is not always pure holiday joy) and enjoying together the gastronomic delights of Neapolitan Christmas fare. Of course, there is constant debate over what should go on the holiday table. There are certain dishes that have long been linked to the Christian calendar in Italy.

Caga Tío

Caga Tió, Tió de Nadal No cagues arengadas Que són saladas Caga torróns Que són més bons It’s not a carol, but it is likely the most popular song in Catalonia around Christmastime. Please pardon the profanity necessary in rendering a faithful translation: “Shit, Log, Christmas Log/Don’t shit herrings/Which are salty/Shit nougats/Which are better.” You might also hear Caga Tió/Avellanas i mató/Si no cagas be,/Et dare un cop de bastó. “Shit, Log/Hazelnuts and mató [curd cheese]/If you don’t shit well/I’ll hit you with a stick.”

Best Bites 2025: Europe Featured Image

From Athens to Marseille, Paris, Porto, Palermo, and beyond, our contributors name the one dish they couldn’t stop thinking about in 2025. A city-by-city roundup of the best bites they ate all year, from neighborhood classics to quietly exceptional plates.

The Original Mae On’s Curry rice stall has been a Chinatown favorite for over 50 years, Bangkok, photo by Thomas De Cian

Asia fed us well this year, with some of the most interesting foods coming from small rooms and backstreets. These weren’t the dishes anyone expected, but the ones that stayed in mind long after they were eaten.

A Vietnamese banh mi Louisiana po'boy sandwich, New Orleans, photo by Matt Haines

Sweep across the Americas and the year’s most memorable bites lead to small rooms and backstreets: a potato alfajor in Buenos Aires, trout tostadas in Mexico City, coffee in Oaxaca, a roast beef po’boy in New Orleans, and a peach scone in Queens.

The Essentials: Where To Eat in Bilbao, Spain Featured Image

From century-old pintxo bars to modern Basque grill houses, this is your essential guide to where to eat in Bilbao, Spain

Mamá Heladera: Gelato, Flavored By Memories

The smell of clean clothes with a lavender sachet from grandma’s closet; the family farm in nearby Lleida province during summer with apple trees and wild aromatic herbs growing all around; peaches washed in seawater during a beach day; an afternoon snack of popsicles while playing under the pine tree in the garden. These are just some of the memories that neighbors left in the mailbox of Mamá Heladera in Barcelona’s Poblenou, where owner Irene Iborra turns them into gelato flavors – an initiative that was recently awarded by the Barcelona City Council as best new innovative business (XVII Premis Barcelona Comerç). Mamá Heladera sits next to Tío Che, a classic horchateria and ice-cream parlor on Rambla del Poblenou that opened in 1912.

Recipe

Anyone who takes more than a fleeting interest in Georgia’s traditional cuisine beyond the inescapable khachapuri and khinkali will probably agree that walnuts are the real gastronomic workhorse of Georgian cuisine. This versatile ingredient is deftly woven into a range of delightful dishes from soups and salads to rich, creamy stews, of which the Megrelian kharcho is one of our favorites. A slow-cooked dish of beef or veal simmered in creamy walnut sauce tempered with fried onions, garlic, and a generous amount of spices including coriander, a local variety of blue fenugreek (Trigonella caerulea) and marigold flowers (often called “the poor man’s saffron”), Megrelian kharcho is a heavy, hearty dish. It’s usually served with corn grits, locally called ghomi, or the cheese-saturated version called elargi – a combination that often calls for loosening the belt after indulging.

Sobakiri Arabompu: A Shrine to Japanese Buckwheat Featured Image

In a side street in Nishi-Tenma, Sobakiri Arabonpu serves hand-ground, hand-cut soba that must be eaten within minutes. A family-run shop with a Michelin Bib Gourmand and a devoted local following, it shows how far craftsmanship can go in a city known for fast, casual food.

La Original Cangreburger: Fast Food Artistry

It is 6:30 pm – the workday of most of the taco, quesadilla and memela vendors in the city is over, but “The Artist’s” shift has just begun. Every day, as the dusk light bathes the streets, 34-year-old Caleb Santiago sets up his food cart right below the centuries-old clock that overlooks the corner of 5 de Mayo and Murguía. By 7:00 pm, he is ready for another night of juicy hamburgers and hot dogs. Among all the late-night hamburger stalls sprawled across the city, Caleb’s is something else. Initially known as just “Cangreburgers,” this little SpongeBob Squarepants-inspired cart has been feeding Oaxacans for the last 16 years.

Treiz’envie: The Octopus Queen of Marseille  Featured Image

A one-woman seafood show on three wheels, Treiz’envie brings the spirit of Marseille’s Mediterranean to the street.

U Puparu: The Puppetmaster of Panini Featured Image

A beloved Cinisi food truck serving Sicilian panini layered with memory, technique, and local flavor. U Puparu shows how street food can be art.

Canalha

Lisbon is changing so fast that it’s quite refreshing when a restaurant opens without proclaiming a twist or a “concept.” When Canalha was announced, it stirred great curiosity among local diners – and for good reason. A talented chef, renowned for Michelin-starred restaurant Feitoria, as well as the itinerant project Residência in 2023, was leaving fine dining to open a place with Portuguese fare sprinkled with a bit of Spanish inspiration. Just a few days after opening in November, Canalha became the talk of the town, and now you need to book a table for dinner weeks in advance.

Jin: The Slow Izakaya Featured Image

A quiet neighborhood izakaya in North Shinjuku, Jin has been serving seasonal fish and steady hospitality for decades.

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