Rashed wandered aimlessly in the dark, autumn leaves and twigs crunching under him with each step. Apart from the light from his Samsung, the scene around him was pitch black. “I just need to get signal so they can send me a recording of Lulu’s voice,” he said, hopeful but frustrated. Lulu is his beloved two-year old niece – the one who almost convinced him to stay in Istanbul when he squeezed her goodbye. It was the last time they touched before he left his family behind to embark on the harrowing three-week journey to Germany.

Since Syrians took to the streets in March 2011 to demand reform, news from Syria can be boiled down to montages of people angry, bloodied and afraid; bearded young men in military fatigues dodging behind crumbled buildings; the ominous black flags of the so-called Islamic State; children pulled from the rubble of bombed out buildings; masses of people crossing borders into neighboring countries or being saved from the sea. That’s all the world knows about Syria. And while those images are real life for many Syrians, it shouldn’t define them. Food, however, does. It’s the lifeline of Syrian culture, easily defined by almost boundless generosity, as can be witnessed in the mounds of food piled high for any given guest. For Syrians, a friendship isn’t truly established until “bread and salt” are shared.

Editor's Note: We’ve worked together with Brooklyn-based graphic designer Jeff Yas to create distinctive icons for all the cities we work in. We recently spoke with Jeff about the creative process behind creating these edible visuals:

We are very proud to have been included in a New York Timesarticle about small group culinary tours that appears on the front page of today’s Dining section. Looking at food walks in Istanbul, Paris, Rome and a few other culinary capitals, the article hails the arrival of a new kind of guide – the “food Sherpa”:

We’re very happy to announce that Culinary Backstreets turns one today! It’s been a wonderful first year and we’re thrilled to see how far we’ve come in this time. When we launched CB last year as the global expansion of IstanbulEats, we set ourselves the goal of covering authentic local eats around the world. As we described in our “Gastro Manifesto,” our mission was to get “off the eaten path,” sharing with readers our explorations of some great cities’ culinary backstreets. From four cities at the beginning – Istanbul, Athens, Barcelona and Shanghai – we grew to a network of six within the year, adding Mexico City and then Rio de Janeiro. Along the way, we’ve covered everything from family-run, hole-in-the-wall restaurants to quirky street foods in each city, from festive holiday culinary traditions to the sometimes fraught intersection of food and politics. A big “thank you” to our always curious and engaged readers, for your interest, support and feedback. Keep reading – and eating!

Culinary Backstreets’ co-founders Ansel Mullins and Yigal Schleifer recently spent a few days introducing a crew from the CBS Sunday Morning show to Istanbul’s gastronomic underbelly, at one point journeying in a rickety wooden boat on the Golden Horn in order to get to the next meal.