Around Chuseok, Korean rice cake shops fill with colorful songpyeon, small filled rice cakes traditionally steamed over pine needles. Their ingredients, shapes and fillings vary, but their place at the center of Korea’s autumn holiday remains constant.

At Lakheeoak in Gongdeok, seasonal seafood, ssam, banchan, and Korean comfort dishes arrive with enough sauces and accompaniments to make every bite a little different. Wine, whisky, baijiu, or makgeolli simply add another variable to the table.

This family-run restaurant near Jeongneung has been making buckwheat muk by hand since 1982, serving just 50 bowls a day alongside seasonal noodles and cabbage jeon.