On the Anchovy Trail

By Vanessa Larson photos by Ansel Mullins

Published on January 14, 2013

On any given night, bustling, narrow Nevizade Street in the heart of Istanbul’s Beyoğlu district buzzes with thick crowds of evening revelers searching for the best table while clean-shaven waiters in their customary uniform of pressed white shirts and V-neck sweaters attempt to lure the crowds into their establishments.

Istanbul

Köfteci Arnavut: On the Good Ship Meatball Shop

Perhaps it’s the proximity of the waters of the Golden Horn or the weathered wood interior, but we get a distinctly maritime feeling at Köfteci Arnavut, a tiny köfte joint in the historic Balat neighborhood. The members of the İştay family, who opened the place in 1947, seem to think the same thing, running the place with ship-shape efficiency.

Istanbul

An App Now on Our Menu!

For almost a year we’ve been sorting through comments and suggestions from readers of IstanbulEats.com to help us develop the ultimate iPhone application for eating locally and authentically in Istanbul. We know Istanbul is a tough city to navigate, so our app’s mapping system will steer you to your destination lunch with GPS. With the “Nearby” feature, you’ll find the kebab, mantı or baklava nearest to you all over the city.