At Río Oja, four classic Basque sauces and a counter full of casseroles offer a taste of the Bilbao that existed long before the Guggenheim changed the city.

From century-old pintxo bars to modern Basque grill houses, this is your essential guide to where to eat in Bilbao, Spain

Near San Mamés, Cork has become one of Bilbao’s most compelling addresses for wine by the glass, thoughtful pintxos and classic Basque dishes served in a bar that still feels personal.