Tbilisi’s strategic location made it a desirable place to occupy, and there’s no shortage of conquerors that passed through: Romans, Byzantines, Mongols, Khazars, Arabs, Persians, Ottomans, Russians and, finally, the Soviets. Civilizations came and went, leaving their spices, herbs, recipes and cooking techniques, a heady mix that eventually morphed into Georgian cuisine. This rich history is the backdrop of our day’s exploration. Our day begins where Tbilisi got its start millennia ago, by the natural hot springs in the oldest part of the city. Here, a mosque, synagogue and Georgian Orthodox cathedral provide a panorama that tells much about the city’s diversity and its history as an important center of trade and culture and a key stop along the ancient Silk Road. We’ll start with a cup of expertly brewed tea – accompanied by a slice of classic khachapuri – in a traditional Azeri teahouse, before making our way to a neighborhood bakery for a taste of shoti, the canoe-shaped Georgian bread, straight out of the clay oven. We’ll then continue through Tbilisi’s Old Town, arriving at a charming café devoted to celebrating Georgia’s agricultural bounty, where we will taste a wide range of deeply flavorful walnut-based spreads and out-of-the-ordinary pickles. Moving to the 19th-century Orbeliani district, we’ll stop into a neighborhood bazaar to learn about and taste Georgian herbs, spices, sauces and specialty foods, like churchkhela, a sausage-shaped sweet made by dipping walnuts in a thick grape syrup. In search of more Georgian classics, we’ll next head to a nearby spot that makes some of Tbilisi’s best khinkali – the utterly addictive dumpling that, despite being considered Georgia’s national dish, traces its roots to the Asian steppe – and a sampling of three different versions, all handmade. With some room left in our bellies, we’ll then settle into the quiet courtyard of a hidden restaurant for a belt-popping feast – or supra – of our own, with sizzling and garlicky chicken shkmeruli as the centerpiece. Finally, we will finish our Tbilisi food tour with a tasting of natural kvevri wines (aged in clay vessels), made by a passionate new generation of winemakers who, while connected to international trends and markets, are deeply respectful of the ancient methods of Georgian winemaking. This approach is reflective of where the city’s cuisine is also heading. As Georgian food culture slowly emerges from its Soviet-era deep freeze, Tbilisi’s chefs are looking beyond their country’s borders while also reviving and safeguarding Georgia’s unique culinary traditions. The open spirit of the Silk Road is back in town, and on this epic day of eating, we’ll get a taste of what it’s all about. Note: This tour addresses some difficult subjects such as the history of Russian aggression and occupation in the region, that are essential to understanding the context of modern-day Tbilisi and how its cuisine was shaped. If these subjects make you uncomfortable, this tour may not be the right fit for you.
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