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Istanbul
Tophane Tarihi Taş Fırın: Fast Break Bake

Every year, for one month only, bakeries across Istanbul churn out round, flat, yeasty loaves of ramazan pide bread. Before Muslims break their fast at sundown, they hurry to buy these addictively chewy pides, which are essential to the iftar meal here. Continue »

Istanbul
Ramadan’s Iftar: The Break Fast of Champions

Think of Ramadan, which just began in many parts of the world, as a kind of monthlong biathlon that consists of an all-day race to beat back the hunger and thirst of fasting, followed by an all-night marathon of eating and drinking in order to fortify the body for the next day’s fast. Continue »

Istanbul
CB on the Road: Deniz Börek Salonu in Edirne

Edirne has more meat to offer beyond the glistening liver that bears its name. Deniz Börek Salonu has crowned the top of Saraçlar Caddesi since 1986. Every morning, lines of salivating citizens hurry to work with crunchy poğaças or sit down to enjoy steaming heaps of stuffed pastry. Continue »

Istanbul
CB on the Road: Kokoreç at the Edirne Pazar

For the past 24 years, Cemil Tuncay has wheeled his small metal cart to the biweekly produce pazar in Edirne. He sets up shop around noon, lighting coals under what can be described as massive, torpedo-shaped sausages. Continue »

Istanbul
Akdeniz Hatay Sofrası: The Syrian Connection

The only positive thing about the torturous annual visit we used to make to Istanbul’s main police station in order to renew our residence permit was the chance to drive through the low-rent Aksaray neighborhood. Continue »

Istanbul
Van Kahvaltı Evi: The Kurdish Breakfast Club

In Turkey’s predominantly Kurdish eastern provinces, breakfast is not just for breakfast anymore. Continue »

Istanbul
Kenan Usta Ocakbaşı: Skewers at an Exhibition

If Istanbul had a city museum, in the 20th-century exhibition we’d expect to walk into a life-sized recreation of Kenan Usta Ocakbaşı, a seminal grill joint in the Beyoğlu district. Continue »

Istanbul
Aynen Dürüm: Feeding at the Kebab Trough

As we’ve written here before, if you do a little rooting around, the Grand Bazaar can be as much about the food as it is about the shopping. Case in point: Aynen Dürüm, a microscopic kebab shack at the edge of the sprawling bazaar that serves exceptionally good wraps (or, as they’re called in Turkish, dürüm). Continue »

Istanbul
Şeyhmus Kebab: The Rhythm of the Knife

We’ve committed a lot of space on this blog to identifying the taste, smell and sight of a seriously good kebab, but it was not until we sat in Şeyhmus Kebap Evi (on a tip from chef Gencay over at Meze) that we came to know what delicious kebab actually sounds like. Continue »

Istanbul
Ask CB: Eating in Cappadocia?

Dear Culinary Backstreets,
I’m planning to visit Cappadocia this summer, and while I have my sightseeing and walking itinerary all lined up, I would love to know where I can find the best places to eat in the region. Can you help?
Continue »

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