The perpetually packed Bar Mundial is one of Barcelona’s elder statesmen. It opened for business in Santa Caterina-El Born in 1914 under the name Bodega La Chispa, and was rechristened with its current name in 1925, when the Tort family took over. The place is now run by third-generation owner Paco Tort. The old bar has history, that’s for sure – even El Chispa (“Spark”), the bartender, is a 30-year veteran of the place. And what keeps people coming back to Bar Mundial are the delightful seafood tapas, classic and contemporary, that issue from the tiny kitchen.
The name of the place refers to the numerous people from all over Spain and from abroad who used to gather at the bar, both before and after the Spanish Civil War. Mundial’s walls are lined with old black-and-white photos of boxers, their gloved hands at the ready, with autographs and dedications to Paco’s grandfather, the manager for a lot of the poor but strong lads, newly arrived from the country, who got their start in the boxing ring. For many of those young boxers, the first warm food they had in the city was at Mundial and made by Paco’s grandmother.
Up until 1979, Mundial specialized in classic vermut accompaniments: pickled vegetables and conservas like tinned anchovies, tuna, cockles or even the more exotic sea urchin or dates. But since then, the bar has slowly worked its way towards its current menu of fresh seafood and tapas. Paco Tort has worked with the same supplier of fish and seafood these last 35 years, choosing specimens that come from all over the country, such as lobster from Galicia, langoustines and red prawns from Andalusia, and tellerinas and escupiñas, two types of shellfish that come from the coasts of Maresme and Menorca, respectively.
Ten years ago, Tort brought in the chef Andreu Rosillo, whose CV was full of experience at high-end restaurants, to lend a more refined touch to the kitchen. Today, Rosillo’s disciple, Joana Salinas, brings the menu up to date with the Asian flavors he loves, as in the grilled langoustines with ginger. The rhizome’s intense, full-bodied flavor perfectly complements the sweet, tender flesh of the crustacean. Salinas also adds a bit of sophistication to more traditional Mediterranean flavors, such as with the grilled cuttlefish flambé with rum, truffles and foie gras. The famous tapa of eggplant chips with goat cheese and honey has been drawing customers in since its introduction to the menu four years ago. There are also a few classics, including ensaladilla mar i muntanya, with vegetables and cuttlefish tentacles, and a salad made with tuna and piquillo peppers.
Rosillo also makes calamari a la romana, a typical dish throughout Spain. The name of the dish refers to its origins with the Portuguese Roman Jesuits, who in the 16th century were battering and frying fish and vegetables for Lent, as they had taught the Japanese during their missions in Asia (“tempura” comes from the Latin tempora ad quadragesimae, or “in Lent time” in English). The squid is sliced into rings, dipped in a mixture of flour and egg and fried in sunflower oil, whose neutral flavor allows that of the seafood to shine. Rosillo also cooks chipirones, or baby squid, the same way, giving them a light, satisfying crunch. A squeeze of lemon points up the subtle flavors of both.
Perhaps the best-loved items at Bar Mundial are the tellerinas and escupiñas. Rosillo grills them just until they’re tender and tasty, adding the one-two punch of garlic and parsley. We love to eat them accompanied by a zippy white – something refreshing, like Albariño or Verdejo.
Rosillo’s cooking is the kind we call para chuparse los dedos – finger-licking good. Or, as Tort’s grandfather might call it, a total knockout.
Editor’s Note: We are sorry to report that Bar Mundial is closed.
August 18, 2023 Maison M&R
A 16th-century tower stands at the southern edge of the Plage des Catalans, the closest […] Posted in Marseille
June 19, 2015 Zongzi
In typical Shanghai fashion, good things come to those willing to stand in the longest […] Posted in Shanghai
June 16, 2015 Best Buzz
Like other cities around the world, Mexico City has been flooded with big-name chain […] Posted in Mexico City
Published on April 18, 2014
Related stories
August 18, 2023
MarseilleA 16th-century tower stands at the southern edge of the Plage des Catalans, the closest beach to Marseille’s city center. The Tour Paul was one of the city’s lazarets, quarantine stations for sick sailors to prevent disease from entering the city. In ruins after centuries of erosion, the Infirmerie Vielle (“Old Infirmary”) is now being…
June 19, 2015
ShanghaiIn typical Shanghai fashion, good things come to those willing to stand in the longest lines, or to pre-book the farthest in advance. We’ve seen the queue for braised duck at Guang Ming Cun swell to several hours long during the Chinese New Year, and A Da's scallion pancakes require a minimum hourlong wait on…
June 16, 2015
Mexico CityLike other cities around the world, Mexico City has been flooded with big-name chain coffee shops that charge exorbitant prices for a cup of bad coffee. Fortunately, D.F. is a city of contrasts, where good taste in coffee still exists. We set out to find the best coffee shops in town and were surprised by…
