Athens has never been an in-bed-by-11-p.m. kind of city. We Athenians are all about having a good time for as much of the time as possible, so we’re often out drinking and dancing until the wee hours of the morning. And then of course it’s time for a pick-me-up from one of the city’s vromiko food trucks – literally “dirty,” but only metaphorically so. In fact, the best of this category is very good indeed. We’ve written previously about a couple of standouts; here are a few more of our late-night favorites.
Giannis
Giannis and northeast Athens go way back. He started selling his famous sandwiches in a small canteen in the very same spot about 25 years ago. He became famous for his large hot dogs, and people from the northern suburbs would always make a late-night stop at his joint. After some years, he eventually moved from the canteen to a small venue with a few tables outside.
The two most impressive aspects of Giannis’s operation are the huge variety of sandwich fillings, including pork or chicken skewers (fillet or thighs), lamb kebabs, döner, pork belly slices, etc., and the superb bread he uses for the foundation of said sandwiches. It’s par-baked, and he finishes it off on charcoal to amp up the flavor (as if the sandwiches really needed any more).
Kotopoulades
The phenomenon that is Kotopoulades has been going strong for 20 years. It all started in a small eatery in Peristeri, in west Athens, and since then the original owner has opened a few more places, which are managed by good friends of his. One of them, Thanasis, helms the newest Kotopoulades place in Galatsi. “I believe that everything has to do with our quality,” he says. “This is why people still come to us. A simple recipe and the best ingredients are the secret to success.”And this, ladies and gentlemen, is what success looks like: a fresh sesame roll or a sour yeast bun;par a large, 100-percent chicken fillet skewer that is first grilled and then preserved in a lemon-water solution to remain tender and juicy. Place ham and cheese on the bread, then place the warm chicken skewer on the cheese so that it starts melting. Then drizzle the chicken with lemon juice, ketchup and mustard. Slather half the bread with mayonnaise and half with a spicy white cheese spread. Four tomato slices ensure extra moisture and flavor. Finally, pack the whole sandwich to its limits with lots and lots of extra-thick Belgian-style fries and a pinch of oregano. If that doesn’t send you home to bed, we don’t know what will.
The same basic framework is also applied to double pork souvlaki, country-style sausage or kebab. In the last year, Thanasis has also offered a really tasty burger and a small €0.80 hot dog with ketchup and mustard.
To Karotsi tou Giatrou
George, a.k.a The Chinese, a.k.a. The Doctor, a.k.a. The Chuck Norris of “Dirty Food,” is the most renowned seller of “dirty sandwiches” in Athens and offers one of the best of its kind. People of all ages queue outside his place near Monastiraki to order the famous Loua Loua or the Subway XL sandwich.
George is half Greek and half Vietnamese and started selling sandwiches out of a small handcart in the area. He recently found a small room in Psyri Square, where he continues to feed his fans. He is always kind enough to thank his customers and honestly believes that quality and humor are what make hungry Athenians return again and again.
The Loua Loua is a 27-cm, extra-thick country-style sausage with cheese, cabbage salad, mayonnaise and George’s famous secret extra-spicy sauce. The Subway XL is a 30-cm sandwich filled with ham, cheese, bacon, salami, pepperoni, grilled pepper, fried egg, tomato and lots of fries. The last time we got one, we put it on the kitchen scale, and it weighed 745 g (1.6 lbs)! We recommend showing up hungry.
On a recent visit, just before we took off, George told us a secret that has haunted our dreams ever since: “You know, when it comes to sandwiches I am merely ‘good,’ but when it comes to pasta… I am really, really good, and I have in mind a street pasta idea!” We can’t wait.
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