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Istanbul
Tophane Tarihi Taş Fırın: Fast Break Bake

Every year, for one month only, bakeries across Istanbul churn out round, flat, yeasty loaves of ramazan pide bread. Before Muslims break fast at sundown, they hurry to buy these addictively chewy pide, which are essential to the iftar meal here. Continue »

Istanbul
CB on the Road: Join Us in Gaziantep!

Ankara may be Turkey’s political center and Istanbul its cultural and economic one, but ask Turks what their country’s culinary capital is and the answer will invariably be the same: Gaziantep. Continue »

Istanbul
Ramadan’s Iftar: The Break Fast of Champions

Think of Ramadan, which began in late June in many parts of the world, as a kind of monthlong biathlon that consists of an all-day race to beat back the hunger and thirst of fasting, followed by an all-night marathon of eating and drinking in order to fortify the body for the next day’s fast. Continue »

Istanbul
First Stop: Anissa Helou's Istanbul

Editor’s note: In the latest installment of our recurring feature First Stop, we asked chef and food writer Anissa Helou where she heads first for food when she arrives in Istanbul. Continue »

Istanbul
CB on the Road: Karadeniz Dreams

Trabzon doesn’t face the sea so much as fall into it like it’s hugging an old friend. The weight of dozens of mountains and just as many rivers pushes the city into the Black Sea, and the blue-collar port and ribbons of highways get the region’s bounties out of the city seemingly while the bread is still warm. Continue »

Istanbul
Last of the Milkmen: Fehmi Özsüt’s Kaymak, from Buffalo to Table

Charming and surprising, Fehmi Özsüt has an easy, no-worries smile that belies a life full of unbelievable stories and intense work. Every day, even on weekends, he wakes up at 3 a.m. in order to run his kaymak business. Continue »

Istanbul
Turkistan Uygur Lokantası: Food from the Noodlelands

Anyone who has spent time in the former Soviet republics of Central Asia (or, “the ’Stans”) will have developed a deep and lasting appreciation for the cuisine of the Uighur, a Turkic people spread across the region whose homeland, Uygurstan, lies across the border in western China. Continue »

Istanbul
Çay Times: The Everyday Ritual of Turkish Tea

Tea is to Turkey what fizzy, watery beer is to Milwaukee – consumed in copious amounts, a desired chemical reaction takes place, but its real value lies not in the taste but in the ritual of swilling. Without noticing it, tea has snuck its way into daily life for us. We never really enjoyed the flavor of standard Turkish tea, but it is part and parcel of the rich Turkish experience. Continue »

Istanbul
Özkonak: The Real Pudding Shop

Regulars at Özkonak, a well-loved fixture in Cihangir’s ever-changing restaurant scene, must cluck in disapproval at the sight of a new generation of customers who walk right past the pudding display at the front and head for the steam table and its selection of prepared savory dishes in back. Continue »

Istanbul
Çukur Meyhane: When Liver Met Hamsi

Editor’s note: The departure of Aret, our favorite garson in the city, had us reconsidering our love of this little cubbyhole meyhane where we’ve spent so many nights over the years. Continue »

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Food Walks! Explore with Culinary Backstreets
When it comes to exploring a city's authentic dining scene, while the stomach should ideally serve as the best compass, the truth is that it's hard to find your way without good local advice. That's where Culinary Backstreets' food walks come in.
Istanbul Eats: Exploring The Culinary Backstreets
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