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Articles by: Istanbul Eats

Istanbul
Altan Şekerleme: More Than Just Eye Candy

Just up the Golden Horn from the Egyptian Spice Bazaar is Küçük Pazarı, a rarely explored warren of market streets and Ottoman-era caravanserais that are home to scissors sharpeners, saddle shops, vendors selling axle grease (by the vat) and purveyors of axes. Continue »

Istanbul
Farooj al Zaeem: Slow Fast Food

Farooj al Zaeem is, pretty much, the best kind of restaurant made to resemble the worst kind of restaurant. If the neighborhood – one of Beyoğlu’s most unkempt snatches – doesn’t send you running, then the look of this place, like a knockoff polo shirt with misspellings, will signal that something here is not right. Continue »

Istanbul
Hail Caesar’s: Mushroom Hunting in Istanbul's Forests

Editor’s note: We’re celebrating Mushroom Week at Culinary Backstreets, and today’s installment takes us to Istanbul’s Belgrade Forest, where Turkey’s leading wild mushroom expert has found some remarkable fungus specimens. Continue »

Istanbul
Meşhur Tarihi Kalkanoğlu Pilavcısı: Smell Business Owners

The brothers Altu and Erol Aslan, who operate the Yeni Melek corner store on Ayhan Işık Sokak in Istanbul’s Beyoğlu neighborhood, have a legitimate complaint against their next-door neighbor, Tarihi Kalkanoğlu Pilavcısı. Continue »

Istanbul
Şehzade Erzurum Cağ Kebabı: Gaucho Kebab Rides Again

Istanbul has plenty of kebab joints, but places serving cağ are sadly hard to find. Originating in the eastern Anatolian province of Erzurum, the kebab looks like a horizontal döner, but tastes otherworldly. Continue »

Istanbul
Farewell, Pando: Istanbul Loses a Legend, and Part of Its Soul

Last week we had our last meal at the iconic Beşiktaş kaymak shop Pando. The framed news clippings were all boxed up; the marble-topped tables that lined the blue and white walls of the tiny place were in the storage space of a friend somewhere in the neighborhood. All that was left was a space heater, soon to be taken away. Continue »

Istanbul
Mandabatmaz: Grounds for Celebration

It’s a dirty secret nobody wants to talk about, but let’s put it out there: finding a good cup of Turkish coffee in Turkey can sometimes be very difficult. Continue »

Istanbul
Save Pando: Eviction Threat for Istanbul's Iconic Kaymak Shop

It was at a dinner at Mikla, one of Istanbul’s fanciest restaurants, that we identified a turning point in this city’s restaurant culture, one which might finally favor the informal, traditional and often overlooked local eateries that are the heart, soul and lovely underbelly of this city. Continue »

Istanbul
CB on the Road: Island Hopping Fit for a Prince

Editor’s note: We are sad to report that SofrAda has closed. Continue »

Istanbul
Azerbaycan Sofrası: The Baku-Moscow-Istanbul Culinary Pipeline

Looking at a map of the southern Caucasus, you’d expect Azerbaijan to be the next big thing in the world of food, sandwiched as it is between culinary heavyweights Georgia and Iran, connected as it is in so many ways to Anatolian Turkey. Previous trips to that country have not delivered, though. Continue »

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