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Articles by: Despina Trivolis

Athens
Nice ‘n’ Easy: Expat Favorites, Part 1

Kifisia, as we’ve mentioned before, used to be a holiday destination for wealthy Athenians, and its suburban charms remain intact. Green spaces, high-end shops and close proximity to most of Athens’ international schools have seduced a number of expats into settling down here. Continue »

Athens
Student Special: Low Prices, High Taste in Athens' Mezedopoleia

In early September and October, Athens – just like many other cities around the world – sees an influx of young people leaving home for the first time to spend the next four years in intellectual pursuits and drinking coffee. Continue »

Athens
Xara: Just Like in the Movies

Watching old Greek movies from the 1950s, ’60s and ’70s has been a rite of passage for every single generation raised in Greece from the ’80s onwards. When we were young, these movies played endlessly on TV, getting us acquainted with the Greece our parents grew up in. Continue »

Athens
Hello, Neighbors: Middle Eastern Comes to Downtown Athens

Like many cultures with a strong national food culture, Athens has been slow to welcome foreign cuisines. First, there were the heady 1990s, when the first luxurious restaurants serving such food opened. That was followed by a decade of discovery, with the first mid-priced sushi and Indian restaurants appearing left, right and center. Continue »

Athens
Downtown Athens Souvlaki Classics, Part 2

We first wrote about classic souvlaki joints a year and a half ago, and since then, those spots we recommended have only become more popular. We can’t take all the credit, however; as we mentioned in our primer, the humble dish has undergone a renaissance of sorts, and there are now all sorts of places you can find it – from hip and fashionable boîtes to traditional holes-in-the-wall. Continue »

Athens
To Mavro Provato: Raising the Bar on Meze

There is something magical about the area where To Mavro Provato is located, near the rather mysterious Proskopon Square in Pagrati. The square itself, hidden behind Vasileos Konstantinou Avenue, is usually dark even in the daytime thanks to the tall shady trees that fill it. Continue »

Athens
Galaktoboureko: Custard Queen

There is a certain rite of passage associated with being invited to dinner or coffee at a Greek friend’s house. Not so much because of what you will end up eating or drinking there, but because of what the other guests will be bringing as gifts. Continue »

Athens
Galaxy and Au Revoir: Booze Cruise

Editor’s note: Our second stop on CB’s Global Bar Crawl is in Athens, where two classic old watering holes have been tending to the drinking needs of locals for decades. Continue »

Athens
ENOA: (Not) For Members Only

Situated by the sea in the marina of Agios Kosmas, ENOA is part of a truly strange neighborhood. There are a couple of nightclubs, some cottages and the enormous, badly lit rowing and sailing buildings that have been left to molder after the 2004 Olympics – but mostly the feeling is of an abandoned wasteland by the sea. Continue »

Athens
Ask CB: Greece’s Autumnal Dessert?

Dear Culinary Backstreets,
I’ve noticed that a dish called
moustalevria pops up in shops all over Athens in the autumn months. What is it, and where can I get it? Continue »

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