Update: This spot is sadly no longer open.
Dear Culinary Backstreets,
I heard from some friends that everyone smokes in restaurants in Athens, despite the fact that it is not officially permitted. What is the situation, and is there anywhere we can dine without being exposed to smoke?
This is a very familiar question, not just for visitors but also for those who live in Athens. Smoking indoors was officially banned in Greece in September 2010, with a few legal exceptions such as for bars that are smaller than 70 square meters. Most restaurants observed the smoking ban in the beginning, only to realize pretty quickly that they were losing customers, as Greeks are notorious smokers. Since the onslaught of the economic crisis in Greece, most businesses – restaurants included – have chosen to ignore the ban, and the enforcement units that were meant to ensure the ban was in place were also discontinued due to a lack of funds. Even the MPs who voted for the smoking ban still smoke in the houses of parliament, much to the amusement of the international press.
In spring and summer, at venues where there is outdoor seating everywhere, smoking is not usually a problem. During the colder months when sitting outside is not an option, however, the amount of smoke might come as a nasty surprise to visitors, especially in some of the more old-fashioned places that do not necessarily have great ventilation. Unfortunately there is nothing you can really do to stop people from smoking around you, so if you are bothered by smoke or have small children you may wish to call up a restaurant in advance and ask if smoking is allowed. Some restaurants have provided a special place for smokers but these are usually venues on the very expensive end.
At the time of this writing, there were still a number of completely non-smoking venues in central Athens. (In the future, however, it might be a good idea to call to check, as more and more venues are reverting to their old smoking policy.) In downtown Athens, Doris, one of my favorite lunchtime mageireia, is a good option for those who want to try traditional Greek food in a non-smoking environment. Relatively close by, just behind Syntagma Square, the Japanese restaurant Furin Kazan also has a non-smoking policy. [Editor’s note: We regret to report that Furin Kazan has closed.] Furin Kazan is one of the best sushi places in town and possibly the only one where you can eat decent Japanese dishes that will not cost you an arm and a leg (typically, Japanese food is a luxury item in Greece).
In Kolonaki, Nice ‘n’ Easy is a slightly pricey restaurant that prides itself on organic ingredients and offers an international menu (the burgers are quite good, by Athenian standards at least) that varies from gluten-free pasta to spring rolls. Also in Kolonaki, the sleek Scala Vinoteca, with its stylish wooden interior, is a cross between a wine bar and a restaurant that attracts Athens’ high society. The venue offers cheeses and charcuterie items galore, along with a small tapas-like menu and an interesting selection of wines.
– Despina Trivolis
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