It’s been more than half a century now since The Beatles formed, and their worldwide popularity continues unabated. In Japan especially, the band’s presence and influence were outsized almost from the beginning, and John Lennon’s marriage to Yoko Ono cemented the band’s place in Japanese culture. It’s not uncommon to hear Beatles songs playing continuously in public places in that country today. But the Beatles obsession never seemed to hit Mainland China – even in much more cosmopolitan and open Hong Kong, a 1964 concert was reported to be the only Beatles show ever to make a loss for the promoter, with unfilled seats given away to local soldiers.
At the height of Beatlemania in Japan in 1966, when the band toured under intensely heavy security (and scrutiny, as they were performing in an auditorium meant for traditional martial arts performances), China was on a decisively different path. Chairman Mao was just launching his ill-fated decade-long Cultural Revolution, which all but wiped out the arts, including culinary traditions and other elements deemed too bourgeois. Mao became the only acceptable personality cult; musically, this left room for little else besides the most traditional Chinese instruments and revolutionary “red songs.”
Thankfully, Japan’s large expat population in Shanghai has brought over their Beatles obsession and combined it with the unwavering devotion to good food that we share at Culinary Backstreets. Since 2008, Kuta’s Kitchen has been serving up izakaya (casual pub) specialties and shochu (the popular Japanese distilled beverage) with style, and now the eatery has three locations (some with name variations due to apparent partnership disputes).
While the barrage of Beatles songs on the speakers and kitsch lining the walls are what you notice first, the delicious food quickly takes center stage. The selection of yakitori – grilled items on skewers – is vast, but don’t miss the huge chicken meatballs, each stuffed with a quail egg and slathered in a sweet soy glaze. The juicy chicken thigh skewers, beef meatballs and beef tongue options are all winners as well. Vegetarians aren’t left out here either; the roasted garlic and avocado slices disappeared almost as soon as they hit our table.
Although Shanghai’s ramen selection has vastly improved over the last few years thanks to several Japanese institutions – namely, Ippudo and Mensa Miyushi – that have opened up locations, Kuta’s options hold up well, with rich broth, thick cuts of pork and elastic noodles, complete with large wooden scooping spoons. Small details matter here, yet the atmosphere is as unpretentious as it gets in Shanghai.
Also popular are the shabu shabu dishes, essentially mini hot pots with a basket of fresh raw veggies, beef and pork to cook tableside. The Sumo Sampler serves two or three people but is also great for bigger groups looking to get some variety beyond skewers.
The huge sake and shochu list helps keep the place crowded and lively. Try a fruit-infused shochu highball, or chuhai, for an easy, sweet start or finish to a meal. Asahi on draft is another no-brainer to accompany skewers. For dessert, a marshmallow skewer drizzled in balsamic accompanied by ice cream conjured up memories of summer campfires spent roasting s’mores.
Although Japanese pub food and the Beatles seems like an odd choice at first glance, the execution has Westerners, locals and Japanese coming back and packing the place nightly. Will Kuta’s manage 50 more popular years like the band undoubtedly will? That’s more than a lifetime in Shanghai’s dining scene, but for now they’re hitting all the right notes.
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Published on January 21, 2014
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