The first inhabitants of what is modern-day Mexico City subsisted on mostly plants and grains. Their daily protein intake came from nixtamalized corn, beans, insects and, in smaller amounts, fish and game. When the Spanish brought pork, chicken and cattle to the New World, the local diet changed forever.
Today, the average Mexican still doesn’t consume much meat; our diets continue to be based mainly on corn, beans and other grains. But meat is ever present in our dishes. All you have to do is walk around Mexico City to find street stalls that sell tacos, tamales, tortas, quesadillas, etc. – all containing meat or with the option to add it.
That is why finding places that make vegetarian dishes – and make them well – is always a refreshing experience. Once upon a time, we had bread from the small cafeteria next to one of the most popular cafés in Coyoacán. At the time we didn’t give it a lot of thought; we only noted in passing that the bread and sweet rolls, whole-wheat and freshly baked, were particularly good. A few weeks ago, when we were invited to have breakfast at that same place, we were surprised to discover that they offered breakfast, and we gladly accepted, if only to try that delicious bread again.
Papalotl (Nahuatl for “butterfly”) is located just a couple of blocks away from the center of Coyoacán, one of the D.F.’s most beloved destinations (as you might have noticed from past First Stop features) for tourists and locals alike. The colonial buildings and cobblestone streets give Coyoacán the feeling of being outside of the city, when, in fact, the city has swallowed what has been a popular getaway for Mexico City residents since colonial times.
Every single dish that Papalotl serves is vegetarian and made with organic ingredients. That morning, we had the green chilaquiles, a delicious dish of baked tortilla chips served with a spicy green sauce and topped with a free-range organic egg. Other breakfast options include molletes made with whole-wheat bolillos and topped with organic beans and cheese, eggs cooked with vegetarian chorizo, enchiladas and amaranth pancakes served with agave syrup.
For less than 100 pesos (around US$8), one can enjoy a delicious breakfast that includes organic coffee or tea, orange juice and a main dish. We were surprised by how many dishes Papalotl’s employees were able to prepare in the small kitchen at the back of the restaurant. They also offer a lunch menu that includes such items as veggie burgers and lasagna, and at very affordable prices.
Or for a lot less than that, you can just sit at one of their wooden tables on the sidewalk and enjoy a cup of tea, chocolate or coffee with a piece of freshly baked sweet roll and know that none of the ingredients used for those products were sprayed with hazardous chemicals but that they came from small producers all around Mexico. For those reasons and those prices, not to mention the delicious bread and food, Papalotl deserves a tip of the hat.
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